Banff National Park
I LOVE Banff National Park. I love it so much I got married here! It's my favorite place I've ever been to. It's SO beautiful and calming. I can't get enough of this place and I will definitely be back many times in the future :)
One thing you should know is that it’s not like your average national park. There is a town there that has many good food and lodging options within the national park itself in addition to all the natural beauty.
When I Went:
6x times - Summer 1994, November 2015, June/July 2018, October 2018, October 2021, September 2022, August 2023
Itinerary:
Banff and Lake Louise with time spent in Yoho National Park, Jasper National Park, and Kootenay National Park
How long:
I have spent various amounts of time here and no time is never enough. If you want to hike, I recommend at least 5-7 days. If you’re not much of a hiker/like leisurely walks, you can get a taste of the area in 4-5 days.
Notes:
1) I've been here six times which makes it my most visited place. There are pros and cons to each season, but no matter what, it’ll be beautiful. I’ve been in June, July, August, September, October, and November
2) The Canadian Rockies are a National Park lovers dream. Banff is surrounded by other parks too like Yoho, Kootenay, and Jasper National Park. I'll briefly talk about those too.
3) You need a national parks pass while in the park. Check out the Banff-Lake Louise website to see what option is best for you.
When to go:
It’s on my bucket list to go in winter and spring, but I’ve been in the summer and fall.
June, July, & August - excellent time to go, but the summer crowds will be out. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake should be fully thawed in early-mid June. The weather should be great, but prices will be higher.
September - I got married in Banff in September (after Labor Day) and the crowds were not as big. Weather is still great, but can be chilly and maybe a chance of snow. The larch trees will also start changing as early as mid/late September. This is one of my favorite times to go.
October - I love Banff in early October. We were also here for some of Banff Pride Week. You should also be able to see the larch trees turn colors this month. It will be colder, but same thing as September, less crowds and cheaper prices.
November - was not ideal for activities. It was too cold to do some things and not cold enough to do others. It's a good time to get good deals and to avoid the crowds. There is still something very magical about seeing the snowy landscape and at times we were the only people at certain places. We were going to go to Jasper National Park, but because of snow conditions, it was harder to get up there so we just stayed in Banff.
How I got there:
I have flown nonstop to Calgary from LA (3 hours) via WestJet and Air Canada. Then we rented a car and drove to Banff (1.5 hours away). There are also plenty of shuttle services if you don’t want to rent a car or wait until you get to Banff to do so. I’ve taken the shuttle and it’s also very easy to do.
Accommodations:
We stayed at a few different place as you'll see below. I should note that if you cannot find anything on Booking.com or other similar websites during peak seasons, you should try the actual hotel's website.
BANFF
Fairmont Banff Springs - the ‘Castle in the Rockies’ is beautiful and even if you don’t stay here, you should have a meal or explore. It is also very pricey so this is definitely a ‘treat yourself’ type of place. We stayed here in October and got some perks through my Chase card. They have a good amount of restaurant and bars in the hotel that are good.
Hidden Ridge Resort - good place if you want multiple rooms or have a bigger group. There's a kitchen, fireplace, and a couple of pools with a nice view. This is nestled a little away from Banff Ave., but a very short drive to Banff Ave., the main street.
Buffalo Mountain Lodge - I stayed here in the winter and fall and it was so cozy. It had a fireplace and just like Hidden Ridge, it's in the same area above Banff Ave. (not a quick walk to town - maybe 20-30 minutes)
The Juniper Hotel - this is on the outskirts of town, but that being said it is only a five minute drive from town and the town is not that big. It is right next to the highway so it’s quick going to Calgary or Lake Louise. I liked this hotel and it has a good restaurant. It may not be as modern, but the King Suite with Valley View worked. My friends stayed in the 3 bedroom suite and it was really nice.
Mount Royal - this is right on Banff Ave. so the location is very central. I only stayed there for one night, but I remember the room and lobby being nice.
Douglas Fir Resort & Chalets - only stayed here for one night, but had a kitchen, fireplace, small convenience store downstairs, and pool. It's right across from Hidden Ridge and Buffalo Mountain. It was ok, but a viable option if you’re looking for something cheaper.
Peaks Hotels & Suites - I have not personally stayed here, but almost booked a couple of times. I had some friends stay here for my wedding too. It is in the heart of downtown and walkable to many things in town.
Banff Mountain Home- The Real Rockies Experience - my in-laws stayed here for our wedding and it was a fun place for a group of people and right behind Banff Ave.
Activities/Sights To See:
BANFF
The center of town is cute and quaint. It's not very big and most things are on Banff Ave., but I love being there.
Johnston Canyon - there is an Upper Falls (1 hour, 1.2km one way) and Lower Falls (1.5 hours, 2.4km one way). It's about a 20 minute drive from the center of town. The end to Lower Falls was a bit underwhelming and there was a line to get into the small area where you could take a close photo. Upper Falls was nicer and there's a walkway where you can get closer to the waterfall.
It's a popular trail so there were a lot of people on it around 4-5pm on a Saturday. There are manmade walkways along the canyon and it's pretty cool!
Bow Falls (Trail) - you can walk along the river and there is also a small waterfall (Bow Falls). It’s an easy walk with some stairs. The falls were frozen when I went in November
Tunnel Mountain Trail - 2.7 mile out-and-back, easy/medium. There is a steady incline, but it is not too difficult. There are a decent amount of flat parts where you can admire the city. You’ll also get a great view of the Fairmont Banff Springs and their golf course.
Banff Gondola - I know, touristy, but good views of Banff from above. The ride up is 8 minutes and you're amongst the trees. We got the Sky Bistro dinner package with the gondola ride. It was a bit foggy and cold when we went up there, but it was still a nice experience. The food at Sky Bistro was also good. We also had our wedding reception here! If you're driving up there, it's the same way as the hot springs, but stay to the left for the gondola parking lot.
Banff Canoe Club - this is further up from Bow Falls on the Bow River. It's $40 CAD for one hour of kayaking/canoeing. We were able to paddle up to Vermilion Lakes, which led to a really peaceful view. The waterway to Vermilion was sometimes a bit narrow, but that added to the adventure.
Vermilion Lakes - nice lake off the beaten path. So there are no canoe rentals here, but you can get to it via Bow River like I mentioned above. It's a nice short drive or walk here, or you can bring your own canoe/kayak if you have one.
Lake Minnewanka - large lake that you can rent a boat on, bike or walk around. We were on a mission to kayak so we didn't spend much time here, but it was beautiful like all the other lakes.
Banff Upper Hot Springs - In winter 2015, there were barely any people here and it was enjoyable even though it was cold out. In summer 2018, it was crowded and not as enjoyable. It's more like a pool than a natural hot spring.
Cascade of Time Garden - free and beautiful. It is at the end of Banff Ave. on the way up to Fairmont Banff Springs.
Central Park - beautiful park along Bow River. Follow it north and you’ll hit the Banff Canoe Club and Vermilion Lakes. Go south and it will lead to Bow Falls. There are plenty of picnic spots, parking, and bathrooms. On Wednesdays, there’s the Banff Farmers Market during the warmer months.
Cascade Ponds - beautiful area with bridges, ponds and grassy meadows. Great place to take a peaceful walk or have a picnic.
Two Jack Lake - yet another beautiful lake in Banff. There are some campgrounds and you can paddle/boat here (bring your own). We walked around the lake with the dogs and it was very peaceful.
High Rollers Bowling & Beer Hall - a fun place to bowl, play some games, get pizza, bar food, and drinks. We had our wedding welcome event here and it was a great space for a group.
SHOPPING
Paper Den Banff - a great place to get some souvenirs including stickers, prints, notebooks, etc.
Banff Tea Co. - I had a field day in here and smelled so many teas. I probably bought around 8-10 types of tea to take home.
Evoolution- I loved this place too. So many unique olive oil and balsamic vinegar flavors. There is bread so you can taste all of them. We got a six pack to take home with us.
Jolene’s Tea House - another tea store that’s in a cute little cabin.
Banff has plenty of outdoor stores if you forget or need something plus bigger brand names like North Face, Patagonia, Lululemon, etc.
FOOD
Sky Bistro - this is at the top of the Banff Gondola so you will need a ticket to get up here or you can take the trail up! Sometimes these restaurants can be a bit hit or miss, but the food was great. This is also where we had our wedding reception so I might be slightly biased! The views are amazing and the restaurant is beautiful. I’ve done the dinner package before which seems to be a better deal.
Three Bears Brewery & Restaurant - other than Sky Bistro, this is my favorite restaurant in Banff. It’s beautiful, the food and drinks are good. There are two levels and they also have outdoor seating when the weather is nice.
The Juniper Bistro - we had our wedding rehearsal brunch here in the private room and the food was very tasty. They also have a patio when the weather is good. Nice view!
SALTLIK Banff - If you want a nice steak dinner, here’s a great place to go!
LUPO Italian Ristorante & Patio - Beautiful restaurant that had opened up earlier in the year. Good apps and pastas.
The Grizzly House - a bit touristy, but you feel like you're in a cabin and they serve fondue. We made the mistake of thinking the meat came with fondue, but it comes with a bunch of different sauces which was good too. We got it on a hot rock stone and it cooked at our table. The fondue will be in the appetizer with bread or you can get the dessert version with chocolate too.
Park Distillery Restaurant & Bar - I initially went here in November 2015 and loved it. The vibe was great and I remember it having good food. The food didn't live up to my memory when I went back in June 2018. I still standby that it has a nice vibe to the restaurant.
Waldhaus Restaurant & Pub - this might be hard to find, but if you are near Bow Falls it’s an easy walk. A little more of a trek if you’re coming from the main lobby of Banff Springs. They have a patio where we saw wildlife hanging out on the golf course. They serve German food which was pretty good and they do fondue if you sit inside.
Afternoon Tea at The Rundle Bar - I love a good afternoon tea and this one was very pleasant. It’s at The Rundle Bar inside the Fairmont Banff Springs.
Stock Food & Drink - it’s the small restaurant to the left of the lobby at the Fairmont. I was surprised that the coffee, tea, and breakfast was very good. It seems more like a grab and go situation, but there is seating in the back.
The Vermillion Room - at the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. We had a breakfast buffet there and it was good. I really like the decor and the view was also very lovely.
Wild Flour Bakery - a nice bakery for breakfast, sandwiches, pastries, and coffee/tea.
The Uprising Bake Shop + Espresso Bar - solid sandwiches, pastries, coffee, and tea.
Eddie Burger Bar - burgers! Haha. I remember we went here back in 2015 and it was open late.
Whitebark Cafe - cute cafe nestled in Banff Aspen Lodge hotel and has good coffee and tea drinks.
Bear Street Tavern - they have pizza, beer, and other bar type of foods.
Mary's Popcorn Shop - um, this stuff is SO GOOD. We bought smaller bags at first then said whatever and got the biggest bags. The Chicago mix (half cheddar/half caramel) is a classic, but the Banff mix is also great (half white cheddar/half maple & pecan)
BeaverTails Banff - no, they are not actual beaver tails! They are fried dough with toppings that resemble a beaver’s tail. They are very tasty and I personally preferred The Classic (cinnamon and sugar), but you can go pretty crazy with the flavors. Be warned that it can get real messy so grab those napkins!
Rose & Crown - went here for my casual wedding day after party. A fun bar with live music, drinks, and some food. It was too cold for the patio to be open, but on nice days that’s an option.
Nesters Market & IGA Banff - food in Banff is not super cheap even with the US dollar being stronger than the Canadian dollar. Save some money and make your own if you want.
LAKE LOUISE
Lake Louise - the famous lake of course! It's about a 45 minute drive from the center of Banff. During busy summer months, you'll want to get there early (like before 10am) to get a parking spot. It's a big lot, but it can fill up quick. There will be a lot of people in the summer! There are overflow lots with shuttles I believe, but I've never taken one, just seen signs for it on the road. In the winter, it was pretty empty.
The lake is beautiful and the rich color that a lot of these lakes have are because of 'rock flour' that comes from the glaciers. Depending how close, time of day, weather, etc. can determine how blue the lakes look. When people saw my photos, they would ask me if the water was really blue, and the answer is YES!
You can walk along the lake for a very easy stroll. I've never officially made it to the end, so I don't think it loops all the way, but you can at least go near the glacier you see facing the lake.
Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise - this is right next to the lake. There are some restaurants in the hotel including a more lounge-y restaurant where we sat in front of the window and watched it snow in winter. We also stayed here in November because of a discounted price. The rooms weren't that special, but it was nice being so close to the lake.
Fairview Lookout - this is on the left side of the lake if you are looking at Lake Louise straight on. It's a fairly quick 3.2km hike (2 miles), but it's all uphill until the very end. There isn't a huge lookout, but you can see a majority of the lake and hotel.
Lake Louise Gondola - we did not ski, but we took the gondola up to the top. View was nice, but I preferred the Banff Gondola.
Lake Agnes Tea House - if you are walking on the right side of the lake, this is where the trail starts. It's around 7km round trip (4.5 miles). The hike isn't hard, but it is a fairly steady uphill climb with a mix of flat parts. I definitely was breathing a bit heavy at first cause of the elevation change.
This hike doesn't have a great view of Lake Louise, but you'll be amongst the trees. Maybe 2/3 of the way, you will encounter Mirror Lake with a good view of The Beehive. If you continue past Lake Agnes, you should be able to to go to The Beehive.
So we finally arrive to the tea house and it is already pretty crowded. Try to start your hike early in the morning! We probably started around 9-10am. My friend, Lizz, magically gets a table for us right away, but it's a hot mess when you're there. You have to keep your eyes peeled the entire time for someone to leave. I'll be honest, the food wasn't anything that will get rave reviews, but it's more about the novelty of finishing the hike to get to the tea house.
They have a pretty large tea selection, pastries, sandwiches, soups, etc. They fly in all of their supplies before the season and every day someone on the staff takes their trash down. Very impressive!
Moraine Lake - we got there by 8am and got a spot in the lot. It looked like there were more spots, but probably would've filled up in 15-20 minutes. The parking lot is small and once it fills up, it'll be hard to get in. Once you turn off the main road, it's actually a 14km drive to the lake.
Once you get there, you can go hike up the rock pile to get that awesome view you see in photos. It's a steady 10-15 minute hike up, but it's easy and paved. The view is really nice and you can climb down some rocks to get a good unobstructed photo.
There are other trails in this area too. We did the walk along the shore which was a breeze, but enjoyable. It was sprinkling on and off, so we didn't want to go too far in case it started to rain harder.
Peyto Lake - this is a 30-35 minute drive north from Lake Louise. When you search for directions/look for signs, look for Bow Summit, NOT Peyto Lake. You will miss it if you're looking for Peyto. Parking was a little rough when we got there, but we found something fairly quickly. It's a steady uphill climb to the lake overview. Lots of people on the observation deck, but if you go to the side off the path, you can get a great view without all the people in it.
The water is such a vibrant blue in the summer and a pale blue in the winter.
Waterfowl Lake - before we hit Peyto Lake on our way down from Jasper, there was this beautiful lake. People were kayaking and the water was lovely against the mountains, just like all the other lakes!
Bill Peyto's Cafe - we wanted a place to sit down and eat, so we landed here. It's in a hostel and had decently cheap prices. They have your standard sandwiches, burgers, chili, etc.
YOHO NATIONAL PARK
The great thing about the Canadian Rockies is the amount of national parks here. There's Yoho, Jasper, and Kootenay. Yoho is technically in British Columbia so if you go here, you'll be in two provinces in the same day!
Takakkaw Falls - It's a short walk from the parking lot to the falls. It's easy and you can go as close to the waterfall as you'd like. The closer you get, the more rocks you'll have to climb. I also read that this is the highest free falling waterfall in Canada!
Emerald Lake - just wow. When we got here, the lake was a bright green-blue color and the weather was so perfect. We did the walk around the entire lake which is 10.8km (6.7 miles). It took around 1.5-2 hours to go all the way around. It's flat the whole way and can get a little muddy if it rains.
We stayed at the Emerald Lake Lodge for a couple of nights and it was lovely. There is an offsite parking lot and a shuttle will come pick you up. The restaurant in the lobby was pretty good as well. Wifi in the rooms wasn’t great, but it was a good reminder to get off your phones and enjoy where you were :)
JASPER NATIONAL PARK
Good weather in Jasper has eluded me twice. In November 2015, we couldn't drive up cause of snow and in July 2018, it rained almost the whole time. With that being said, we didn't do as much as we wanted to.
The drive from Banff National Park to Jasper National Park is one of the most scenic drives. It rained on and off, but was mostly sunny. There are also a good amount of hikes, lakes, etc. on the way up.
Beauvert Lake - the Fairmont Jasper Lodge is right on this lake. Even though it was sprinkling, it still looked beautiful. You can canoe here and walk around the lake. We chilled in the restaurant/lounge while it rained and it was pretty cozy.
Maligne Lake - it took around an hour to get here and it was raining on and off. We went early in the morning so there were very few people on the road. I can imagine it would take an extra 15-20 minutes to get there during peak hours and season since there is only one road there. You can also walk around the lake, canoe, and take a boat tour.
Maligne Canyon - so we didn't go on the hike, I just went to the lookout. This is not too far from the main part of Jasper.
Things we didn't have time for: SkyTram, Maligne Canyon hike, and Maligne Canyon Tea House. Some things in between Jasper and Banff that we also didn't have time for: Mistaya Canyon (parking lot was closed), Tangle Creek Falls, Columbia Icefields, Sunwapta Falls, and Parker Ridge Trailhead. P.S. heard the Glacier Walk was not worth the money.
KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK
My friend Jamie and I didn't spent a ton of time here, but what we saw was pretty. It's around a 30 minute drive from Banff. We stopped at the border of Alberta and British Columbia where you can stand and be in both provinces at once. We also walked up part of Marble Canyon and just drove around the park taking it all in.
Enough time?
Definitely not! Like I mentioned in the beginning, this is one of my favorite places and I will be back in the future. But for those who just want to visit for the first time, I would say 6-7 days would give you enough time to do a lot of things.
